Plumeria Tree - How To Tips | Pretty Garden Tips

Plumeria Tree - How To Tips

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Caring for Plumeria Flowers are very easy. That is one of the reasons Plumeria are so popular. Besides water and some fertilizer once a month, Plumeria require little care. Every now and then you need to give your plant an overhaul to keep it thriving and healthy. Below are some tips on how to keep you Plumeia plant thriving year after year.

Re-Potting in Spring - That small pot your Plumeria plants were rooted in is too small to keep the plant growing vigorously after the first year or two. Aim for a 10-inch or larger pot for the next several years of growth. Most commercial potting mixes will work especially with the addition of drainage materials such as sand, Perlite, etc. and some extra organic matter such as peat or composted manure. The easiest mix to use in Teas Plumeria Mix or Teas Rose Bed Mix. Another workable mix is 40% Perlite, 40% peat moss, and 20% sand. Also Osmocote 14-14-14 pellets or other time released plant food can be worked into the mix. PLANT YOUR PLUMERIA IN FRESH SOIL EACH YEAR with the stem at the same level it was growing before. You may alternate repotting with “topping up” your pot. This involves removing some of the soil from the top of the pot and putting fresh mix back around the plant in the same pot. ROOT PRUNING THE FINE ROOTS IS BENEFICIAL EACH SPRING IF POSSIBLE. The fine roots from last year will die in the winter. These old roots do not decompose readily and tend to clog up the pot. With a root pruning you can put fresh soil around the larger roots in the same pot for several years—just change out the old fine roots for fresh organic potting medium like Teas Rose Bed Mix.

Winter protection - Plumeria should be brought in after temperatures begin to fall into the 40’s(F). Water them before bringing them inside. YOU SHOULD NOT NEED TO WATER THEM VERY MUCH, IF AT ALL, FOR THE WINTER. Store the plants in a s bright a light as possible. Although they will survive dark cool storage for the winter they will bloom better with a growing season that is extended with bright light and warmth. They will be straighter and more compact with bright light through the winter. Greenhouse conditions would be ideal, keeping the plants close to 70 degrees F. If necessary they can be stored inside by removing them from their pots, shaking loose the soil and storing them in warm attics or closets for the winter. You can remove the leaves, but if you do, give them an extra day or so for the latex to dry before packing them away. After the warm weather has started in the spring, take them out and trim the roots and repot or even plant them in the ground. You can plant them in pots and submerge the pot partially or fully in the ground, making removal in fall easier and promoting good growth in the warm weather. Use Superthrive to help get them going and remember to shade them from intense sun for two weeks when bring them out for the spring/summer.

Pruning - THESE PLANTS CAN BE PRUNED AT ANY TIME with a sharp knife, cutting at an angle so the cut will not hold moisture. The plants will “bleed” their latex sap, but they will stop bleeding in a day or so. Dipping the cuts in water briefly will help stop the flow. You should prune them if they begin to grow tall so the blooms will appear at a more reasonable height. They will branch and bloom again even more prolifically from new branches. The cuttings themselves may bloom even before they leaf out.

Growing from cuttings - Cuttings for propagation should be at least 1 foot long. ALLOW THEM TO DRY in a ventilated area for a few days to a week (even longer if necessary). Use Superthrive to water the potted cuttings, which should be kept on the dry side in light shade. Plant the cuttings in a 3-inch hole you dibble in the potting mix. The roots will have to come from the bottom of the cutting, so planting too deeply is not advised. In a month your plant should be rooted. It will root better with bottom heat or warm surroundings. The pot should be about 4 - 6 inches wide and 4 - 6 inches deep. Cuttings are subject to rot if they are kept too moist or dark.

Growing Plumeria from Seed: Plumeria can be grown easily from seed, but the seedlings will not remain true to their variety. All named varieties are grown from cuttings from plants with excellent characteristics. If you want to grow your own seed, just let the pods develop and ripen over several months. The seed is explosive, so you may want to tie a paper bag around it to catch all the seed. Each pod holds about 100 seeds. Plant the seeds in a 3-4 inch tray with bottom heat. Use a soil-less mix such as Pro-Mix as the growing medium. Plant the seeds about ¼ inch deep. Tamp them down firmly and water them gently. You’ll be amazed at how quickly they sprout. Don’t overwater or your seedlings will damp-off. When they have grown at least two true leaves, transplant them to small pots. They will grow quickly and will bloom in about the same amount of time it takes a cutting to bloom.

Plumeria care is easy. Following the tips in this article will keep you plants healthy and more likely to flower.

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